Vivienne Mackie takes notebook and camera round homes buried in a hill.
Imagine caves without a single stalactite or stalagmite. Picture caves formed, not by water action, but by human hands. And now imagine those caves along the banks of a river meandering through a bucolic and fertile land. The troglodyte caves along the Loire River’s central area are just such caves. Even more unusual than their appearance and formation are the many varied uses of these caves over the centuries.
Some 90 million years ago the sea, which covered part of France, gradually receded, and tufa ( a type of limestone) formed from marine sediment. In your mind’s eye, fast forward to see the activity in the Middle Ages. Busy artisans and quarrymen dig into the tufa with simple tools, making underground caverns, shelters, escape routes, chapels, and houses. They build beautiful monumental churches, castles and houses above ground with the creamy limestone blocks. By hand, they dig about two thousand kilometers of tunnels in the Saumur region alone.
Now visualize how these tunnels and caves, known as “troglodytes”, are used today. Conjure up caves for wine production, to cultivate mushrooms and snails. Caves as museums, as restaurants and shops, as hotels, and still as living areas. Even imagine a zoo underground!
Don’t just take my word for it – drive here or find some cheap airline tickets and visit these unusual caves yourself, and see all the businesses and homes inside them.
*****
Why “Troglodytes”? The word actually means “cave-dwellers”. Images of pre-historic cavemen spring to mind, and we also imagine trolls and dwarves. Caves such as these would be suitable abodes for these mischievous creatures.
The best way to get an idea of what these fascinating caves were, and are today, is to do a Troglodyte Tour. The Saumur Tourist Office has put together a brochure listing many of the caves, but we preferred to put together our own tour: partly because we wanted to get ‘a feel’ without having to pay an entrance fee at each sight chosen by the brochure tour, and partly because many on the brochure had the markings of theme park spectacle. The zoo, for example, sounded to us over-done and sensational: animals kept underground seems particularly unattractive and cruel.
Our loop, which took a long day, gave us a good representative idea of these troglodytes, and the reality of the Saumur caves systems is just as fascinating as our mental images. We discovered that you don’t even need cliffs to have these caves, as many are way underground.
We experienced these caves as working wineries, as a producing mushroom farm, as a museum, and as a place of shelter. Using Saumur as a base, we drive east along the river road, the cliffs lining it on the right, to the village of Souzay, where the chateau, and many of the houses, project from the cliffs, the back rooms cut right into the rock face. Almost all the buildings are of the warm yellow-sand color tufa stone.
Tourquant, which bills itself as a “Village de Charme” is next. It is indeed a charming place, the buildings of golden stone all decorated with masses of flowering plants, with many Wine Domaines and tasting places along the narrow streets. On the edge of the village is La Grande Vignolle with a chapel, a restaurant, and extensive wine cellars behind its smart facade. We park at the bottom and walk up to the entrance, with sweeping views down to their vineyards. Heading inland, we wind along pretty narrow roads, through meadows and woods, full of wild flowers and birds, and vineyards being tended by the farmers, wheatfields studded with red poppies, and newly-sprouted sunflower plants.
St Cyr-en-Bourg has a large wine co-operative just on the edge of town, which showcases many of the area’s diverse wines. When we approach the buildings at first we think that this can’t be the place, because we’ve heard they have a huge network of caves and tunnels. This is flat. There are no cliffs. But it’s true; the network is all underground in a 10 km maze of galleries. We climb down and discover how the wine-makers make a full range of Saumur appelations in these caves.
The tour begins in a large 12th century vaulted cellar, which was also used as a sanctuary around the 17th century. The bottling hall is the deepest in Europe.
For something completely different we head northwest to the village of Dénezé-sous-Doué for an underground marvel; La Cave aux Sculptures. In the caves, Protestant stonemasons in the 16th century Wars of Religion carved more than 400 figures into the walls, floors and ceilings. The caretaker gives a guided talk, and the main point is that really we’re not sure about the meaning of all the statues, grinning, grimacing, smirking, writhing. She talks passionately about the figures and offers her interpretations, which are often political and satirical. Are these figures really Catherine de Medicis and various French kings?
Next to the entrance kiosk is a small church where supposedly the Catholics and Protestants worshipped amicably on alternate days, so one wonders why the Protestants took to hiding in the caves. Just another part of the mystery. Whatever the story behind these carvings, they are fascinating.
Now for the food part of our tour. We head back to the river, northwest of Saumur just beyond St Hilaire-St Florent, and aim for the Mushroom Museum. To understand more about mushrooms, and later to taste some of them, a visit to a Mushroom “Farm” in caves is a must. The amazing diversity of troglodytic cellars has allowed the Saumur region to become mushroom capital of France, especially for Paris button mushrooms of which it produces about 70%.
The Champignon Museum, opened in 1978 by local growers, is very well-done, both as a museum about mushrooms in general, and as a place to see how and where mushrooms are grown in this area. In these dark caves mushrooms grow best, with a constant temperature of around 15°C and 90% humidity. The tunnels are burrowed right into the cliffs and it would be easy to get lost, without the benefit of modern-day electricity. Would a troll pop out if we went down a dark tunnel?
There’s a great display of many types of mushrooms – more than we’d ever imagined – beautifully set out in display cases, in the Wild Mushroom Museum section. In another section is a collection of old tools used to work the tufa stone and a number of fossils found in the rocks. Further in is the active mushroom bed, where we can see how they actually cultivate the mushrooms. Various mushroom snacks are served at the small cafe on the terrace – our favorite was the galipettes (stuffed mushroom caps), with a glass of dry Saumur rose wine, but coffee and mushroom-shaped meringues are also good.
There’s another operation further along the road which does snails, mushrooms, and wine. Next time, we think it would be fun to see the snail cultivation.
Finally, on the way back to Saumur, the town of St Hilaire-St Florent has a number of large wineries open for visits and tasting. Their tours and focus are different, so we try to visit at least two.
Langlois-Chateau started in 1885, and uses 4 km of tunnels, where they make and store their wine, much of it the famous cremant (sparkling) wine from this region. It’s cool and a little damp down here, with lots of fungal growth on the ceiling and pipes, but perfect for wine. The tour is in-depth and very informative.
At Bouvey-Ladubay the cave floors are more paved and the whole operation seems more commercialized. But the wine is good, and there is an added ‘twist’ to the tour. Many of the caves have been converted into a “cathedrale engloutie”.
A local sculptor, Philippe Cormand, was commissioned to do sculptures in the caves, on the roofs, on corners, at points where passages widen or cross. He sometimes used a modern theme, such as a man with a necktie, but also carved many grapes, and some classical-style pillars. Each is spotlighted, with special music playing as we walk by. It should have been tacky, but actually wasn’t, as it does highlight the potential natural beauty of the caves, and their cathedral-like quality. It’s all under an old abbey up on the cliff, so seemed rather appropriate.
It was a long day, but we were happy and felt we had a good idea now about these troglodyte caves. Who are we to say the trolls are not helping today to make the great wines of the area?
Practical information:
1.Musee du Champignon, St Hilaire-St Florent Tel: 33 (0)2 41 50 31 55 Open 10am-7pm, daily 6th February to 16th November See www.musee-du-champignon.com Entrance fee: E6.50
2. La Cave aux Sculptures, Deneze-sous-Doue Tel: 33 (0)2 41 59 15 40 April, May daily (except Monday) 2-6pm June, July, August daily (except Monday) 10am -7pm September daily (except Monday) 10am-6pm Entrance fee: E3.80, children E2.20
3. Cave des Vignerons de Saumur, St Cyr en Bourg Tel: 33 (0)2 41 06 08 Open 9:30am-12noon, 2:30-6pm (Remember, many places in France close over lunch time). Look at
www.cavedesaumur.com
4. Langlois-Chateau, St Hilaire-St Florent Tel: 33 (0)2 41 40 21 40 Open 10am-12 noon and 2:30-6:30pm daily, 1st April -15th October est of year by appointment. See www.langlois-chateau.fr Small tasting charge, but many hotels and restaurants give out a free tasting coupon.
5. Bouvet-Ladubay, St Hilaire-St Florent Tel: 33-(0)2 41 83 83 83 Daily 8:30am-6pm, June -September; rest of the year, 9-11am and 2-5pm. See www.bouvet-ladubay.fr Small tasting charge, but many hotels and restaurants give out a free tasting coupon.
Recently, Vivienne went back to the Loire and took a longer look at the Cave au Sculptures.
Hi Vivienne
I have just read your article “The Troglodyte Tour” and feel I must take issue with your comment on the Zoo at Doué-la-Fontaine. “Over-done” — not at all, “sensational” — definitely, in the sense that it is beautifully created and managed. Pierre Gay, the director, is dedicated to the conservation and protection of endangered species and, as such, keeps only animals that he knows will be suited to the environment. The site is made from old quarries and the animals are certainly not unattractively or cruelly kept underground. Instead it gives the feeling that you are part of their habitat — not separated by bars or slabs of concrete. Their breeding record is outstanding and I believe that much of the entrance fee goes to the funding of conservation projects around the world.
I can understand people not liking the idea of zoos (especially some of the old, Victorian monstrosities) and I have to say that I have never been much of a ‘zoo person’, but Doué Zoo has been a revelation. It is a pity that you comment on something without having seen it.
Thanks for the comment, Richard. I’ve prodded Vivienne to reply. Meanwhile, if you’d like to submit an article about the Zoo, I’ll be happy to publish it – especially if you can supply one or two pictures.
Dear Richard ,
Thank you for taking the time to post a comment about this article of mine—I really appreciate that.
As you point out, I did make it clear that I did not visit the zoo. I also made it clear that our decision not to go was based on the brochures that we looked at. We were new visitors to the area at that time a few years ago, and had to make decisions about where to go and what to see, based on whatever information was available locally then. It would appear, from what you say, that we made an incorrect decision in this case.
I think it’s very interesting what this episode shows: that what is in a brochure, and how the information is portrayed (and therefore perceived by the reader) is very important. The ideal would be that people could visit everything, regardless of the image they were getting of a place. But, the reality is that people have limited time/money and have to choose.
I am happy to hear that from you that you feel the zoo is not like it was portrayed/as I perceived the portrayal. We are returning to France this summer and hope to be in the Loire Valley. I will do my best to visit the zoo this time, and I will be happy to write a new article on the zoo on how we find it, and/or correct this earlier statement.
Again, thank you for your feedback.
Vivienne
Hello Vivienne
It is a shame that “because many on the brochure had the markings of theme park spectacle. The zoo, for example, sounded to us over-done and sensational: animals kept underground seems particularly unattractive and cruel” you felt disinclined to visit. For the most part you spent your time visiting caves and troglodites but the zoo is hewn out of an old quarry and ALL the animals have either shelter from the hot summer’s sun or open air when they need it. I have known the zoo for 18 years and seen it expand from strength to strength. It is the largest private zoo in France and rivals zoos like San Diego which I recently visited. The vision of the zoo was started by Pierre Gay’s father Louis and his grandson is now taking over the reins. It protects and provides a breeding programme for seriously endangered species. The only “real cages” are for lions, tigers, leopards and other dangerous animals; now you would not want them to be roaming around even in a troglodite would you? Even then it is tastefully done with the animals’ prime interest at the centre of the zoo’s management’s thinking. Every year there is a new attraction; last year the zoo introduced a couple of otters for example. Andean bears sleeping in acacia trees is a spectacle, as is a whole load of other beautiful animals. Theme park it isn’t but a window to the world of keeping animals in a safe, environmentally friendly and respectful nature. Visitors come from far afield for the opportunity of spending some time with beauty; perhaps you might make a special effort next time and not be guided by publicists!
Best wishes
Patrick Greenidge
ps I have loads of photos if you are interested
Thanks for your input, Patrick. If either you or Richard would like to contribute pictures or articles, send me a message at michaelDOTkingdomhockingsATgmailDOTcom. Meanwhile, here’s a link to the zoo’s website. There will be an English language version soon.
Don’t know where the link went, but anyway the English language version is now live.
Zoo
Hello, I am the PR of the Doué-la-Fontaine Zoo and I would like to send you our press release. Could you give me please your business address ?
If you want to visit the Zoo this summer do not hesitate to contact me directly.
Best regards
Laurence Paoli
Hello again Vivienne
We are in the region again this year from the end of July. I’d be happy to show you around the zoo and introduce to its owners. You will find it an experience and unlike any other zoo you might have visited. You can contact me through the website patrick@thegite.com or if you are in the locality on 0241592726
Sorry, the zoo site English language version doesn’t seem to be ready yet, but there are some very good photos – including a running rhino with all feet off the ground. (Running across the field of view, not towards the photographer…)
We visited the Mushroom museum in August this year and have to say we were most disappointed. I had checked their website for prices and to see what there was to see, as having two sons to consider I wanted to ensure there was no long guided tour to endure. I would like to point out that we have explored many underground sites throughout France over some 25 years, so are perhaps a little more demanding than most! Our first shock was that the entry fee had gone up considerably from the advertised tariff on the website, checked just before our departure and for two adults and two children it came to just under 30 Euros, rather than the 20 we had been expecting. Though we note since our return, that the website no longer seems to display the tariff! We also noted that it seemed rather quiet, though we did arrive just after 2.00 pm, but we thought that was probably a plus! As you say the botanical specimens were superb and certainly extensive! However the other displays we felt were a little less impressive. The first display was composed of plaster models of mushrooms – we did not touch, but realised this from the number of broken and knocked over ones visible! The recreated troglodyte dwelling was nowhere to be seen and the display of quarrying techniques was good but very small & almost looked to be an afterthought. The actual mushroom cultivation area was confusing and poorly thought out – we had been expecting to see proper commercial production areas, rather than a few token trays and an awful lot of similar looking “experimental cultures” – perhaps they had only just been placed there as little seemed to be happening – There were a few good display boards showing photographs of actual commercial production though. Outside there was a rather poorly stocked gift shop and behind this and not signposted, was the collection of “related antiques and implements” which looked even more like a souvenir shop than the actual shop! The only “antique” was the very well worn mushroom chair, the rest was a couple of cases of tacky modern souvenirs that were vaguely mushroom related. There was no tasting available and no fresh mushrooms for sale at all – only a few very poor looking overpriced dried specimens. The restaurant was closed and looked as though it had been for the whole season – with no notice of apology or explanation forthcoming from the staff. On the plus side, the loos were clean! Disappointed we went on to the Tank Museum (Musée des Blindés) at Saumur – a world class collection, well laid out, a few you can enter and all with informative accompanying displays – if you like tanks!!!! Fortunately we do, though even for us it proved daunting, there are hundreds! Entry for the whole family was only 20 Euros
Pingback: Saumur’s Doue la Fontaine Zoo, Loire Valley, France « Around and About with Viv
As you can see from the pingback above, Viv has now revisited the are and taken a look at the zoo. Read the post on
her blog
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Hi Mike,
Have to tell you that I’ve moved my web site, so would you be able to update that here—as I see that your blog has picked that up and crossed out my name in the title.
The new we site URL is: http://www.viviennemackie.com
Thanks,
Viv
Thanks, Vivienne. That link led to a very old profile – not even on your wordpress.co blog.