Micromégas 5 rounds Cape Finisterre

Getting from Hendaye to Finisterre along the north coast of Spain in the teeth of the prevailing winds was bound to be tedious for our adventurers.

Preparing for the long slog. Photo: Malone

Some delicate preventive maintenance work made sure that their little outboard ran faultlessly to pull them through the slowest bits.

 

 

 

After a long slog, Max and Man were very pleased to reach Cedeira (a small fishing port near Coruña) and enjoy some of their favourite fresh seafood.

Local delicacy - a plump octopus. Photo: Berque

In fact, they were even allowed to cook it themselves. The ultimate self-service restaurant?

 

 

 

 

 

After sitting out the adverse winds for 4 days, they set out on 20 August in beautiful weather for the port of Malpica, in the Sisargas Islands, famous for the dangerous activity of collecting goose barnacles. If you ever get a chance to taste this delicacy, don’t complain about the price…

After a night in Malpica, they rounded Cabo Vilano.  At the nearby Boi Rock, 172 crew members of HMS Serpent sank on 10 Nov 1890, with only 3 survivors.

Cabo Vilano looks well-named, even on this beautiful day. Photo: Berque

They spent the night in another tiny fishing port – Muxia – before setting out to round Cape Toriñana and, finally, Cape Finisterre, before stopping the night in wind and rain in Finisterra.

They weren’t really surprised to be the only sailing vessel of any kind in the port. This is not cruising country.

 

 

Now at last, they can sail south and expect more favourable winds.

 

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Micromégas 5 – magic moments in Hendaye

Cute little boat. Wonder where she comes from?

Malone Nadège Malone, who has known the Berque twins for a long time, will be following them as they hop smartly down the coasts of Spain and Portugal, trying to recover the one-month delay in setting off from Contis. Many thanks, Malone, for permission to reproduce some of your photos here.

I bet none of the folks on this beach realise they are witnessing an historic moment…

A peaceful anchorage

Anyway, this allows Max and Man to arrive in peace, to be greeted by Malone.

A welcome from Malone

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The trip from Contis has already toned up their muscles – or is that the effect of Malone’s presence?

A moment to remember

Clearly, Malone loves sailing. But don’t expect to see pictures of her sleeping in a polythene bag on Micromégas 5 – she has her own family and she’s also the CEO of an independent company specialising in the corporate travel industry:

LIBERT-MALONE AFAT VOYAGES

Portable : 06 29 47 82 93
PDG · Paris 75017 France
Agence de voyages Tourisme d’affaires organise en France et à L’étranger, déplacements professionnels, billetterie d’affaires. Plateau d’affaires et Tourisme

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Tall Ships – and a little French fishing boat

Tante Fine

Tante Fine

by Keith Kellett

The biggest of the Tall Ships are stately square-riggers, with three or more masts, averaging between 50 and 100 metres in length. In contrast, Tante Fine is a two-masted, gaff-rigged ketch, only 26 metres long….

In July 2002, Tall Ships came to the port of Brest. They left three days later, to race to La Coruña, Spain. Here, they met with other ships, which had raced from Alicante, and together, they cruised to Santander, before racing to Portsmouth.

The Cutty Sark Tall Ships Race is, in fact, a ‘race’ in name only. The fastest ship doesn’t take the most prestigious prize; it goes to the ship whose crew have ‘ … done most to promote international understanding and friendship.’ It’s not decided by the organisers or the sponsors, but by the captains of participating ships, acting on the advice of their crews … half of who must be, by the rules, between 15 and 25 years of age.

One ship which easily meets the crew age criterion is that of France’s sole entry, Tante Fine (‘Aunt Josephine’). During her working life as a langoustier (lobster boat), Tante Fine probably only carried a crew of three or four, but nowadays, she carries a crew of 24. Twenty of them are young people from the Rouen/Le Havre/Fécamp area, taking part in an educational programme called Les Voiles de l’Espoir (‘Sails of Hope’).

The biggest of the Tall Ships are stately square-riggers, with three or more masts, averaging between 50 and 100 metres in length. In contrast, Tante Fine is a two-masted, gaff-rigged ketch, only 26 metres long.

She was built at Plouhinec, Brittany, in 1960, and worked the lobster beds in the Bay of Biscay and off the coast of Mauritania. She brought her last catch home in 1986, and was bought, in a sadly dilapidated condition, by Les Voiles de l’Espoir in 1991.

More than 8000 man-hours were spent in her restoration in the boatyard at Fécamp, where she is now based, and, in 2001, Tante Fine set sail for Antwerp, to participate in the Tall Ships Race for the first time. This year, a new group crewed the ship in the race, and it’s hoped that it won’t be too long before she brings some silverware home to Normandy.

When not racing, or teaching youngsters seamanship and teamwork, Tante Fine can usually be found at Fécamp, where she participates in the promotion of the tourist industry. So, naturally, visitors are welcome.

Les Voiles de l’Espoir, 39, Quai Bériguy, 76400 Fécamp, FRANCE

Tel: (+33)(0)2 35 29 78 01

All images on this page copyright Keith Kellett 2002

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Micromegas 5 reached Bayonne – now she’s off again

After setting out early in the morning of Sunday 31 July in perfect conditions, , ‘les Mutins de la Mer’ arrived in Bayonne on 2 August. They tied up alongside JifXplorer  - whose crew they know because she fishes spent missiles off the sea bed near their home – before attending a cocktail party.

berthed alongside JifXplorer

Emmanuel posted a Facebook comment, muttering that he’d better shave in case there were girls invited. Meanwhile, they ate the kind of meal they expect to live on during their trip: rice or gofio, sardines and hot spicy sauce (nuoc mam this time).

supper time
Now they’re off again,headed for Hendaye.

 

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The Clipper Race – seen from a non-yachtie travel writer’s perspective

Keith Kellett shows that the Clipper Race achieves its aim, bringing sailing to the ordinary man.

The Clipper Round the World Yacht Race describes itself as a race for ‘people like you’. They like to point out that more people have climbed Mount Everest than have sailed around the world, and most of those who have are professionals.

Not that there’s much difference; as yachtsman Sir Robin Knox-Johnston, the founder of the race, points out, the sea makes no distinction between the amateur and the pro.

So, although little or no sailing experience is called for at the time of application, training is given and, when the chosen leg is completed, all will have the necessary yacht-handling skills, for there isn’t much room for passengers on a racing yacht.

All walks of life are represented by the crew … ‘people like you’, in fact. We met a 27 year old sales assistant and a 45 year old lawyer. All age ranges are covered, from teenagers to septuagenarians.

The boats are all identical, fibreglass-hulled 68 footers, with a layer of balsa wood sandwiched between. They were designed by English designer Ed Dupont, and built in Shanghai, China, and each carry a wardrobe of eleven sails, the selection and setting of which is left to the preference of individual skippers.

Each of the yachts is sponsored by a city, an area or a country, and, on the Friday before the race, I was privileged to be invited to the naming ceremony for the two Australian boats, the ‘Gold Coast’ and the ‘Geraldton’.

Before the ceremony, we were taken for a sail on Southampton Water in the yachts, to give us some idea of what it would be like, with nineteen people squeezed in such a confined space. Probably the most important skill to be learned is, if you don’t have anything to do, keeping out of the way of anyone who has!

When the naming ceremony took place, Sir Robin made a short speech, wishing each boat good fortune then both skippers sprayed the bows of their respective boats with champagne. And, that’s the last alcoholic liquor that will be allowed on board for a while … the Clipper Race is strictly ‘dry’!

The race started in the Solent on the 31st July, and you can track them, and find out more about the race and the boats by visiting http://www.clipperroundtheworld.com . You can also follow them on Twitter @ClipperRace, and see more articles and photos on Keith’s own blog Travelrat’s Travels
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Keith Kellett If I ain’t been, I’m going sometime

Keith Kellett Outdoor & Travel Writing & Photography

keithkellett@ntlworld.com

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